By Adrienne Rubin

Riding through Provence is like stepping into a postcard, or riding through one of Van Gogh’s paintings — fields of poppies, lavender, and iris, vineyards sparkling in the sunshine, medieval villages perched atop hilltops with ancient church bells striking the hour. There is no truer immersion into the Provençal landscape than from the saddle.

A Warm Welcome - Bienvenue

Leaving the hustle and bustle of Marseille after a walking tour of the vieux port, the adventure really began at our arrival in the quiet village of Lauris, tucked into the Luberon hills. Our base for the night was a charming gîte, a countryside guesthouse surrounded by vineyards and forests, where we were introduced to the best of Provençal hospitality. Over a long, leisurely dinner paired with local rosé, we got our first taste of the food culture that would define the week—simple, seasonal, and always delicious. With full bellies, we drifted off to sleep to the sound of the frogs and…peacocks! Though not originally native to the area, peacocks have long been well-established in the region and are as much a part of the scenery and experience as the pigeons in the plazas of Marseille.

Flowering fields alongside the trail

We met our mounts and set off the next morning under blue skies, crossing the Durance River and following trails lined with vineyards and blooming fields, stopping at a horse (and llama) farm for a freshly prepared picnic that felt more like a five-star al fresco feast. Local cheeses, focaccia, olive tapenade, a delicious salad, and of course, baguette, made for a perfect midday pause before resuming our ride.

Crossing the Durance River into Mallemort

After traversing the valley between the Luberon and Alpilles mountains, we began our ascent into the Alpilles Natural Park, a rugged region of olive groves and limestone peaks. In the picturesque village of Eygalieres, we wandered past Roman ruins and quiet stone streets, soaking in the serene Provençal atmosphere. The following day, we rode up and over the Alpilles mountains—landscapes that once inspired Van Gogh’s brushstrokes—before arriving in the medieval hilltop town of Les Baux-de-Provence. There, we explored on foot, browsed boutiques, gorged ourselves on gelato, and took in sweeping panoramic views of a countryside quilted with vineyards, fields of flowers, small villages, and the distant Luberon hills where we began.

Camargue - Land of White Horses, Black Bulls, and Pink Flamingos

After Les Baux-de-Provence, we left the hills behind and headed toward the Mediterranean. Our horses traveled by truck while we drove to the Camargue, France’s wild, marshy frontier. We stayed at a traditional mas, or farmstead, run by a local family who welcomed us with warmth and stories. At dinner, we sampled homemade nut wine while learning about the region’s traditions over plates of homemade Provençal fare and rosé that seemed to flow as freely as the conversation.

White horses of the Camargue

Nice beach for a gallop

The guardian on horseback with his herd of bulls

No trip to the Camargue is complete without meeting the region’s famous livestock—and the people who raise them. We rode to a manade, a ranch that breeds the legendary white Camargue horses and black bulls used in the course Camargaise, a uniquely French form of bullfighting. The guardian, or herdsman, gave us a demonstration and even invited us to participate in herding the bulls—a heart-pounding, unforgettable experience on horseback.

Les Saintes Maries de la Mer

That evening, we arrived in Les Saintes Maries de la Mer, a seaside town with deep gypsy and Christian roots and great shopping. We climbed to the rooftop of the old stone church to watch the sun dip into the sea, casting golden light over the marshes. Dinner followed at a local restaurant, full of the smells of garlic and tomatoes, pork so tender you could cut it with a spoon, wine, and the flavors of the coast.

Our final ride took us straight to the sea. The horses, energized by the salty breeze, splashed through the surf as we galloped along the sand. Flamingos flapped overhead, and the wind carried the scent of salt and wildflowers. We wound our way back through the wetlands, past reed-fringed lagoons and flocks of marine birds, already nostalgic for the journey coming to an end.

A Taste of Real Provence

From ancient villages to coastal marshes, this ride gave us the best of Provence. Each day brought something new: forested trails, flower-filled meadows, stone chapels, warm bread, chilled rosé, and the kind of conversations that only happen after a long day in the saddle. If you’re longing for adventure with a side of fine wine and timeless scenery, this one’s for you.

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Provence to Camargue

Ride from the Luberon hills, across the Alpilles, all the way to the Mediterranean in Camargue: the land of flamingoes, black bulls and white horses.

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