Annmarie and Ganun on the banks of the Nile at home in Luxor
Annmarie meets me for dinner when I arrive in Egypt, all warm smiles and organized efficiency. I meet Ganun the following morning with the horses, his smile radiant and his laugh contagious. They will be my hosts and guides over the next week in Egypt, and together they own Horses & Hieroglyphs, which is both a horseback tour operator and a horse rescue, obtaining horses from abusive or neglectful situations and rehabilitating them to be able to use on their tour rides.
While Annmarie focuses on the business - dealing with clients, managing bookings and maintaining the website, and smoothly organizing all the travel logistics, Ganun focuses on the horses. Annmarie tells me more about their story.
How long have you both been riding and how did you get started? I imagine both your riding journeys looked pretty different.
Annmarie posing on an Arabian stallion in front of the Great Pyramids of Giza
Ganun started riding when he was about 8 years old. His father had a horse and taught him how to ride. He immediately fell in love with it and has been riding ever since. Even as a young boy, he was working with horses and camels - he would lead them around for tourists on Luxor’s west bank. Later on, he became a groom and then quickly progressed to become a riding guide and worked for different stables across Egypt. I’ve been riding on and off since I was about 11. It all started when a friend of mine had a birthday party where we went trail riding in upstate New York. After that, I nagged my parents until we found a local stable where I could take lessons in Western riding. After learning the basics, I got into reining and then eventually started learning how to train young horses, which I loved. I never had my own horse though, and I stopped riding for a while in the second half of high school and mostly through college. But I always knew it would be something I’d come back to.
Where else have you traveled to ride?
My first riding holiday was in the Catalonia region of Spain. It was a week-long trip that started north of Barcelona and finished near the border of France at the Mediterranean Sea. We rode through beautiful countryside and the Pyrenees mountains, and at the end we swam with our horses in the sea. It was an amazing trip and got me completely hooked on the idea of riding holidays. Besides that, I'd only ever done short rides on trips within the US.
Where else is on your riding bucket list?
So many places! South America, Italy, Turkey, New Zealand, India, Jordan, and Morocco to name a few. I would love to do a riding safari as well. I did a jeep safari in Tanzania which was incredible, and I would love to go back there or somewhere similar to see the wildlife on horseback.
What drew you to Egypt especially?
Riding next to statues thousands of years old, right in their Luxor backyard
Before coming here for the first time, I honestly didn’t know much about modern-day Egypt. Like most people, I was fascinated by the country’s ancient history, but I was also interested to see the present day culture. It seemed like a unique and exciting place to go, and it would be somewhere completely different than anywhere I had been before. I also wanted warmth and sunshine, and I loved the idea of getting to ride in the desert (it wasn’t until I got here that I realized how much more to the riding there is). Egypt surpassed all of my expectations. I was completely captivated by the people and the culture. Egyptians are extremely friendly and hospitable people, and the culture is so rich. Luxor was especially charming, where felucca boats sail down the Nile, bread is baked in mud brick ovens, donkeys and water buffalo are a part of daily life, and farming is still done with traditional tools. Not to mention all the ancient temples and tombs. It was like stepping back in time. As far as the riding, I loved how forward-going (and fast!) the Egyptian horses are, and the scenery was breathtaking. Egypt gave me a feeling that no other place had and it was very hard to leave, but I knew I’d come back.
How did the two of you meet and how did Horses and Hieroglyphs come about?
Ganun and I met when I took a vacation to Egypt with a friend in February 2020. Ganun was working at another stable at the time and was our riding guide. We connected instantly, and by the end of the trip we knew we wanted to be together. At the time, Ganun had a personal stable and a few horses of his own that he had rescued. Rescuing horses was a passion project of his, and I was really moved by the work he was doing. During my trip, I had seen how many horses there were in Egypt that needed help. We talked about converting his stable into our own riding business with rescued and rehabilitated horses. It wasn’t until about a year later when that started becoming a reality. While I was still living in the US, we began Horses & Hieroglyphs. Once we chose the name, I started creating our logo, website, and social media. Meanwhile, Ganun was rescuing more horses and renovating the stable. It all came together pretty quickly. We launched in May 2021 and before the end of the year, we had our first tour.
What are some of the ongoing struggles you continue to face doing what you do, especially in Egypt?
Ganun’s love for their horses is evident from the moment you meet him.
Rescuing horses in Egypt is not easy. Unlike in other places, the horses are not being brought to us or offered at low prices. Oftentimes, the owner actually does not want to sell or sets a very high price. There is usually quite a bit of negotiation involved. Another struggle is limited access to quality supplies and veterinary services, although we have managed to find reliable sources for this. The expense of feeding horses here is another ongoing challenge. There is little to no grazing available, so everything the horses eat we purchase. Since our horses are either working or recovering, their nutrition is especially important. They are given a variety of high quality, protein-rich feed including berseem clover, alfalfa, chaff, corn, quinoa, and barley. Lately, soaring inflation in Egypt has driven the costs of horse food even higher.
What were you doing before going into horse tourism, and how has that change been for you?
My previous job was about as different as it gets. I was working as a Systems Engineer for a large defense company in the US. I spent long hours in front of a computer writing technical documentation and testing software. It was very routine and dry, and not at all what I wanted to do for the rest of my life. So when the opportunity to start Horses & Hieroglyphs came about, I knew I had to take the chance. With having my own company, I’ve had to juggle many different roles, all of which were new to me. I also had to manage this while preparing to move abroad and adjusting to living in a new country. It was a huge but exciting change. It was also pretty nerve-wracking, since I was going from a steady and reliable industry to the ups and downs of tourism (we started during COVID!). But despite the challenges, the change in lifestyle as well as the experiences and growth that came from it have been more than worth it. Being able to turn my love of horses into a way of life is a dream come true, and the rescue work is extremely rewarding. I also love getting to meet the incredible people from all over the world that come to ride with us.
What makes a good horse for your program and what kind of training goes into that?
A good horse for our rides is one that is forward going, responsive, and unafraid. The horse should have energy but also be easy to handle so that you can enjoy your surroundings during the ride. It’s a bonus if they’re fast for our gallops in the desert! Because our horses are rescues, there are extra challenges to overcome before they are ready to be ridden on our holidays. Usually, there are physical issues to resolve first. They may need to gain weight and build strength, or recover from wounds, abscesses, or swollen joints. Oftentimes they’ve also been handled and ridden harshly, so they may need time to regain trust and resolve behavioral issues like kicking or biting. Our horses come from all different backgrounds, from ex-carriage horses to young and unstarted horses, so they usually need to become familiarized with riding out on the trail and in a group.
Who’s your favorite horse and why?
This is a tough question, but if I had to choose I would say Aminah. Her name means “trustworthy” in Arabic, which suits her perfectly. She is a total sweetheart and we can trust her with any level of rider. She makes a fantastic guide horse as well, because she’s happy to lead and is not afraid of anything (even the water - she loves to swim in the Nile!). She was also our very first horse at Horses & Hieroglyphs, which will always make her a bit special.
Take us through a typical day at Horses and Hieroglyphs.
There’s really no such thing as a “typical” day! When we’re not hosting a tour, there are plenty of other activities keeping us busy. Of course, there is the routine care and exercising of the horses, which is the never-ending job of our stable staff. We also offer hourly rides throughout the year at our stable in Luxor. On the business side, we might be prepping for upcoming tours, planning new itineraries, developing new partnerships, or updating our website and social media. Plus there are always unexpected things that pop up, whether it be a sick horse, a new rescue, or stable maintenance and repairs. There is never a dull moment!
What are some of your favorite sites to visit?
It’s hard to say, since there are so many and they're all uniquely interesting and impressive. Exploring the Valley of the Kings and the tombs of the nobles gives you a real Indiana Jones kind of feeling. The hypostyle hall at Karnak Temple is always breathtaking, and seeing Luxor Temple lit up at night is magical. But one of the most amazing sites is Nefertari’s tomb in Valley of the Queens. It’s the most well-preserved tomb in Egypt, and going inside is truly like being transported back in time. And of course, riding at the Pyramids of Giza never gets old!
What are some of your favorite Egyptian foods and customs/traditions?
I haven’t found any Egyptian food that I don’t like yet! My favorite dishes would have to be moussaka, kosheri, falafel, and pigeon (never thought I would say that, but it’s delicious!). Egyptians also have a big sweet tooth, like I do, and the desserts here are amazing. I love the tradition of eating together and sharing food. There’s always a big spread of food and everyone shares from the same dishes, typically using your hands and eating with bread. Hospitality is also a huge tradition here, so whenever you go to anyone’s home or business, you will be offered a drink (usually tea). Egyptians love a good party, too, so festivals and weddings here are always a big affair with lots of music and dancing. Many of these celebrations happen in the streets so that all the local community can partake in the festivities.
Are there any role models you follow, either in equestrian tourism or in horse training?
My first role model in the equestrian world would be my childhood riding instructor, Mike Bednarek. I owe a lot to him for giving me such a strong foundation in horsemanship. I was lucky to learn from him, since he did not run a big lesson program and I was one of just a couple other students he had. He was a super busy guy, and in addition to private lessons, he taught at a local equestrian college, boarded and trained horses, bred performance Quarter Horses, and either participated in or judged at shows almost every weekend. He was a phenomenal horseman and teacher who really understood the way horses think and how to effectively train them. As corny as it might sound, my other role model is my husband and partner at Horses & Hieroglyphs, Ganun. He has an incredibly natural way with horses and has learned most of what he knows from experience. It’s amazing how well he can handle any horse. He will bring out the best in any horse he rides - sometimes, you wouldn’t believe you’re watching the same horse someone else was just riding. He also has a way of instilling confidence in others and showing them how much they are capable of as a rider. He is our horse guru and I learn more from him every day.
What do you look for in new homes for the horses? Tell me about your rehoming process.
Our horses only go to owners that Ganun knows personally. This way, we can be sure they have the means and experience to look after them properly. Additionally, the horses are given (not sold) to the new owner. The agreement is that we are able to take the horse back into our care if necessary, and the horse cannot be resold - they must be returned to us instead. Fortunately, Ganun is well connected among the horse community in and around Luxor and is able to identify good homes, so we have not had any issues so far with rehoming a horse.
Aminah, before and after
Reyhana, before and after
What sets Horses and Hieroglyphs apart?
At Horses & Hieroglyphs, we welcome our guests into our family for a truly authentic and unique experience. As far as the rides, we are proud to say that we are the only stables in Egypt to offer camping with horses, which is commonly a favorite experience among our guests. We are also extremely flexible and willing to tailor our programs for individual interests, riding abilities, and even non-riding companions. In terms of the horses, choosing to rescue and rehabilitate horses for our riding holidays is certainly not the easy way, but is extremely rewarding and makes us different from most other operators. So when people come to ride with us, they are helping us to continue our rescue work.
What are some of the challenges of living in Egypt as a foreigner and as a woman?
Most of the challenges of living here have more to do with being a foreigner than a female. I can speak some basic Arabic, but I still have a lot to learn and it’s a rather difficult language. Driving is also very different in Egypt - there aren’t as many rules like I’m used to, so it will take a while longer before I’m really comfortable driving a car here. One of the biggest challenges as a foreigner, though, is that anyone who doesn’t know me will assume that I’m a tourist. It's a fair assumption since there aren't a ton of expats, but it can get a bit tiring (especially when they’re trying to sell me something)! Fortunately, I have incredible support from Ganun, his family, and friends, who wholeheartedly welcomed me into the community and are always there for me if I need anything.
What are your plans for the future of Horses and Hieroglyphs?
We are currently looking into new destinations within Egypt. We hope to expand our program options to include the Red Sea, Aswan, Fayoum, and the White Desert. We’re also looking to expand our facilities so we more easily accommodate new rescues. A dream of ours would be to open our own charity clinic on the west bank of Luxor that would help provide veterinary services for local horse owners that couldn’t afford them otherwise.
Prince, before, after, and during my visit (below)
What would you like incoming guests to know before coming to ride with you, or what parting words would you like to share with riders, travelers, and adventurers around the world?
When considering riding destinations, Egypt probably isn’t one the first places that comes to mind. But it should be! It’s the perfect mix of riding, culture, and adventure. The landscapes are stunning and diverse, offering riding in the desert, across lush fields of sugarcane and banana plants, through quaint rural villages, along the Nile and even in the sea. Plus, there are not many other places where you can ride up to ancient temples and camp in the desert alongside tombs. The horses - either Arabians or Egyptian “baladi” horses - have good energy which makes them really enjoyable to ride. Add in all the other non-riding adventures like boat trips on the Nile, sunrise hot air balloon rides, exploring temples, and shopping at the local bazaars, and Egypt truly has something for everyone. For any horse or adventure lover, it’s a place that should not be missed. So yalla, bring your friends and let’s ride!
